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It is one of the country’s highest-altitude departments and therefore one of the coldest.
It villages and towns have many beautiful religious and civil buildings, and its inhabitants perform traditional ancient religious rituals. Handicrafts manufacturing hold an important place in the domestic economy of its people.
Totonicapán used to be a Quiché bastion called Chuvimiq’ina. As the legend goes, Tecún Umán departed from this site to face the Spanish Conquistador Don Pedro de Alvarado. When the Spaniards settled on the area, their Mexican allies named it Totonicapán, which means “the place over hot waters”.
The municipal state capital is located 30 kilometers (19 miles) from Quetzaltenango and 207 kilometers (130 miles) from Guatemala City. It is interesting to see the theater house a small collection of pre-Hispanic, republican and ethnic art. The central park has its main church with and adjacent convent, which were constructed in 1545 and destroyed by a fire in 1878. The cornerstone was placed by Francisco Marroquín, first Bishop for Guatemala. On the outskirts of the city lies the Tanque de los Dragones (Tank of the Dragons), which served as a fountain and washing pool during the XIX century, and is still being used by its inhabitants.
There are many handicraft workshops that produce a wide range of artistic objects, among which you can find glazed and painted ceramic pieces, textiles made with “standing looms”, wax Christmas figurines, wooden boxes and toys, furniture, and leather and tin good. Craftsmen use ancient tools, which go back to the time of the Mayans and Spaniards.
Also notable are the parties and “morerías”. Traditional dances are a main part of the festivities of Totonicapán. Among the most important are La Conquista, Moors and Christians, Mexicans, The Deer, and The Monkeys.
It is worthwhile visiting this village during its main celebration days, which celebrate San Miguel Arcángel, from September 24th to the 30th and during Easter week, when the Passion of Christ is celebrated. The main market day is on Saturday, full of color and very animated, it is an unforgettable experience.
San Cristobal Totonicapán
It is located 14 kilometers (9 miles) from Totonicapán. It is an important textile center (wool, silk, and cotton). You can also find handicraft workshops where masks, musical instruments, wooden toys, pottery, and lead-glazed objects are made. The Tistoj furniture shop is a must. The Franciscan temple and convent are richly ornamented with valuable XVII and XVIII century paintings. It was declared national monument by the government.
San Juan Xecul
Located 18 kilometers (11 miles) from Totonicapán, at the base of Mount Chuicul. It has an important XVI Century temple, with a fabulous bright-yellow façade, the color which is representative of the local huipil (or indigenous blouse). There are saints and angels sitting next to corncobs and quetzal birds on the façade.
Momostenango
Located 35 kilometers (22 miles) from Quetzaltenango and 33 kilometer (21 miles) from Totonicapán. Famous for its wide variety and quality of blankets and Momostecan “ponchos”. These people still use the ancient Mayan calendar of 260 days. Momostenango means “City of Altars”. Quiché priest pray upon the burners and altars located both in the village and its surroundings. Predict the future using seeds, crystals, beans and corn. Nearby are the famous Momostenango cliffs, playful rock formations created by erosion. The main market day is on Sunday.
San Francisco el Alto
Located on top of a 2610 meters (8600 ft)-high mount, 18 kilometers (11 miles) from Totonicapán and 17 km from Quetzaltenango. It is virtually a dead town during most of the week, except of Fridays, when it comes to life for being market day. Its market is the largest of the Guatemalan highlands. This market is not a traditional handicraft market but a typical daily-life market, where you can find anything used by the local inhabitants. Among the goods traded are animals, crops, seeds, food products, tools and thread, products that people from surrounding villages come to purchase.
It has a XVI century temple, which was severely damaged by the 1976 earthquake and was later restored and declared a national monument. During restoration works, several colonial murals were uncovered beneath multiple layers of calcium-hydroxide plaster. Among the most interesting objects are the beautiful altarpieces and carvings.
A collection of pictures taken around Guatemala. Click here